Farm Journal

On August 30th, 2008 we started this journal of the ongoing activities at Café Ita with the aim of updating you on the progress of our project by tracking all activities involved in bringing the coffee from our farms to your cup.  You can get the updates below via an RSS feed by using the appropriate button on your browser.  

Contributors: 

  • Nelson, Junior and Acacio from the farm in the Chapada Diamantina 
  • Luca from Salvador da Bahia
  • Armando from Cambridge
Sunday
04Oct2009

What cost a cup of coffee?  

We have placed the New View article for download at this link.  

Following is the first paragraph of the article.....if it interest you download on the link above. 

What cost a cup of coffee?

It is a hot day in October and a large truck pulls up at the farm gate. The truck has been expected for the past two days so everyone is happy when it finally arrives. The buyer is impatient; he wants the coffee loaded up fast so he can move on to the next farm. The price had been previously agreed but now he turns up with only part of the agreed total. It is a take it or leave it situation for the farmer. This year’s crop is a marked improvement over the past few seasons, the result of the extra attention to detail and the small investments the farmer has struggled to make over the past two years. The coffee is now of excellent quality yet the buyer is only paying commodity1 coffee prices. But there is no alternative and the top quality coffee will now be sold on as only commodity coffee, to be mixed with dozens of other coffees in the area and, eventually, coffees from the whole country. This story repeats itself thousands of times around the coffee growing regions of the world. It is a situation that benefits neither the farmers nor the consumers. What can be done? What follows is the story of a Brazilian farmers co-operative and two of their farms that have now become part of a project selling their coffee directly to consumers in the UK offering a model for a new way forward.

Saturday
03Oct2009

Willie's Cacao - coffee in the old cacao roaster

Now that I am blogging again I though I should post a few pictures of our trip to see Willie of Willie's Cacao - it was some months ago but I never got around to posting the photos.  Steve Leighton from Has Bean Coffee and I spent a day with Willie and his family.  To our surprise when we arrived there was a container full of cacao beans that had arrived late.  Steve and I looked at each other and we figure we may as well get stuck into it and started helping to unload - 16 tons worth of unloading - no, no machines. 

The main idea however was to take our coffee and roast it at Willie's old Victor Gruber ball roaster - why?  Just for the fun of it.  It was great to see Steve and Willie working together around the 100+ year old ball roaster.

Here are some photos of the day:  

 Steve working hard unloading the cacao.  Yes, of course, taking pictures is a good excuse for me to take a break.

Checking the progress of the coffee.  This machine is over 100 years old and mostly used for cacao roasting so it was a bit tricky to get it right. 

 

Steve and Willie at work.

Saturday
03Oct2009

Organic Coffee - why a bad reputation? 

I had an interesting experience recently with a potential client.  It was an organic restaurant and coffee shop in a trendy area of London.  Apparently they serve very good food.  I dropped my card and a few days later I got a call to come in and discuss our coffee.  Of course at arrival I was offered a taste of their organic coffee and choose to have an espresso.  

A smell and look of the beans told me already that the coffee was very over roasted and when served the coffee it was so bitter that in order to be polite and drink it I had to put a bit of milk and sugar which I never do in my coffee.  It was one of the worst coffees I have had  in a long time.

We discussed the coffee, the issues of Direct Trade vs Fairtrade, Single Estate vs Blends, dark vs medium roasts, Biodynamic vs Organic, etc....in the end I was told that they were not interested in our coffee as they like the one they serve.  

Now there are many reasons to not change suppliers, ranging from price to quality of service or established long term contracts.  I did not mind that they were not interested in our coffee but it really bothered me that an establishment was OK with serving bad Organic Coffee as it gives the whole organic coffee movement a bad name that it is already struggling to overcome.  I strongly believe that it is indeed important for our whole industry to promote quality coffee and in particular quality organic coffee as part of an education of the UK consumer.  

Yes, of course, individual choice is what matters and what is good for one is not good for the other.  But serving bad coffee, I just don't understand it.  I guess it has to do with the issue posted in my last post - the expectation A Dark Rich Roast regardless how bitter it is. 

Saturday
03Oct2009

A Dark Rich Roast - Really?

Recently I read a survey where people were asked what type of coffee they liked.  Out of a multiple choice questionare the great majority answered: 

A Dark Rich Roast

However, when it came down to an actual taste test, the great majority did not pick A Dark Rich Roast.  

The survey went on to theories as to why this happened but their conclusion was one of consumer conditioning.

Over the years customers have been told to expect A Dark Rich Roast but along with this they have been provided bad quality coffee that is over roasted and bitter.  When presented with an option of a quality coffee that is well roasted and with a smooth flavour, the majority chose to move away from their preconditioning of the rich roast expectations.

Sadly so many of the consumers in the UK have been preconditioned to expect horrible tasting coffee but worst yet is that so few are truly offered an alternative.  

Saturday
03Oct2009

Double and Triple Certified

Yes, of course it is not new this trend for multi-certification in the coffee world.  However, today on my way to the event in London walking through the narrow streets of East London I went by a few coffee shops, the large ones - you know which ones - with great big signs talking about their single, double or even triple certified coffee and it all of a sudden just hit me...!!

Once at the show, once again I kept encountering all sorts of double and in the case of coffee triple certified products.  Do consumers really know what it all means?  Do they ask the question as to who really benefits from this mad rush for double and triple certification?  

I could not help myself but to think it is all about a box ticking exercise.  The large companies are happy to tick all the boxes as long as the prices remain low and the large profits unaffected.  

On my way out, there it was on yet another big sign - Organic, Fairtrade and Rainforest Alliance Coffee with no mention to the quality of the product and probably served by a low paid and badly trained Barista who does not care about what they serve to the customer.  But the three new boxes have now been ticked and the customers will rush in ...... is this what it is all about?